The Novice Monks of Wat Hanchey Temple, Cambodia

It is the first morning of our Mekong River cruise aboard Scenic Spirit and we are standing at the top of a hill waiting for the rest of our group to come into view. They are climbing 300 steps to the temple at Wat Hanchey. As one of the 'walking wounded' I have ridden to the top in a mini-bus.  Only a month or two ago my healthier self would have been one of the first to take the challenge. That person is returning slowly, but not yet. I envy the climbers. By the time they reach the temple they will be able to view the temple through the prism of a well-earned achievement.

Like so many of the temples and pagodas we see along the Mekong River, Wat Hanchey looks as though it was freshly painted yesterday. The bright colours almost glisten in the morning light. One of the things which strike me in Cambodia is the contrast between new and old. Temples and pagodas look brand new, or they look ancient. They is very little in between.

Wat Hanchey

Our group coming up the path to Wat Hanchey. I didn't miss the path entirely. David and I walked down it on our way back to the ship.

The Novice Monks of Wat Hanchey

Wat Hanchey is populated by Buddhist monks and the many novices in their care. One young boy, about twelve years old, speaks to us about his life at the temple. He talks of rising early and eating only two meals a day. If he misses lunch he must wait until breakfast the next morning before he can fill his empty stomach.

The temple strikes me as more orphanage than religious institution but the young novice is not an orphan. His family live in a village some distance away. He tells us he volunteered to be a monk because he wants to learn - his favourite subject is mathematics. In a country still struggling to overcome the economic ruin of its brutal past this is his only path to education. I wonder whether a life of service to Buddha may not be too high a price to pay - easy for me coming from a country where education is taken for granted. Then he tells us he doesn't have to remain a monk. Once he is older he may choose to leave - in fact he thinks he might.

Our young  novice monk

We are treated to a demonstration of the intricate process of folding a Buddhist robe. The orange cloth is worn in different ways for different activities throughout the day. I wonder how much time is consumed by folding and re-folding the troublesome garment. Before we leave we give him a small amount of money to thank him for his time. He says he will use the money for pencils, and then almost in afterthought, adds he will also buy himself a treat - something permitted to ward off the afternoon hunger pangs. He gives the impression that his life is one of strict rules and quiet contemplation - but there is something about him which makes me think the little boy inside sometimes escapes to play with his friends in the sunshine.

Demonstrating the intricate process of folding a Buddhist robe.

Some of the novices going in for lunch. Notice the two in the background refolding their robes into the lunch time style. 

The Buildings at Wat Hanchey

The buildings at Wat Hanchey are spread over a large level area overlooking a bend in the Mekong River.  They consist of the main temple and many smaller structures, stupas, statutes and bizarrely, gigantic stone fruit. A stupa is a building which contains religious relics or the ashes of monks. One building is a red-brick, mausoleum like structure dating back to the 8th Century - built before the magnificent temples at Angkor. Grass sprouts from the roof as if the dome is growing an old man's hair and there are carvings on the door frame in ancient Sanskrit.

The 8th Century building.

This was one of the few temple buildings we saw that was neither ancient nor freshly painted. I think it is a stupa.

Inside Wat Hanchey

Where is Wat Hanchey?

Wat Hanchey is 20 km north of Kampong Cham in Cambodia. It was the first stop on our Mekong River Cruise from Siem Reap to Ho Chi Minh City aboard Scenic Spirit.

Temple or pagoda?

The word 'wat' in Cambodian means 'temple' so for example, Angkor Wat is properly translated as 'Angkor Temple' and 'Wat Hanchey Temple' is a tautology, a bit like saying Canterbury Cathedral Cathedral. However as to the difference between a 'wat or temple' and a 'pagoda', I have no idea! For once Google has let me down. Search for the difference between a temple and a pagoda and no two answers agree. Wikipedia says a pagoda is a tiered tower with multiple eaves while a temple is a building used for religious or spiritual activities. On that definition Wat Hanchey is a temple.  Other sites suggest temples and pagodas have no distinctive appearance - a temple is a place to worship real people, such as a king, queen or national hero while a pagoda is a place where monks live and Buddhists go to pray. On that definition Wat Hanchey is a pagoda.

Our Cambodian guide was very clear - A temple is an ancient structure like Angkor Wat and a pagoda is a modern structure still in use. Using this definition Wat Hanchey is a pagoda.  

Have you ever been to Cambodia? Do you know the difference between a temple and a pagoda? I would love to hear from you if you do.

In the West we would call this roof ornament a gargoyle. I don't know what it is called in Cambodia. Can you see what looks like a light globe in its mouth?

Buddha and disciples - I think. Apparently you can tell if a statute is Buddha because all the fingers and toes will be the same length.

Note: David and I travelled to Wat Hanchey aboard the Scenic Spirit. We received a 10% media discount on the cost of our cruise. You can find more information on Scenic Cruises at Scenic.com.au. 

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Related posts - 

• A Mekong River Cruise with Scenic Spirit

• Where does basa come from? The confronting secret of Vietnamese fish farms.

• Angkor Wat and the 7 must see temples of Angkor.

• Don't drink the yellow coke and 9 other life-saving tips for surviving Angkor Wat.

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