Pinnacles and Stromatolites: Ancient formations and living fossils on Western Australia's Coral Coast.

The Pinnacles Desert and the stromatolites of Lake Thetis make a great day trip for anyone with even a vague interest in what the earth may have looked like in primordial times. The Pinnacles may be as old as half a million years, while the stromatolites show life as it was at the dawn of time - 3.5 billion years ago. Bored to tears by geology in high school, I found the Pinnacles Desert and the Stromatolites of Lake Thetis fascinating.

No one knows quite how long ago the eerily, striking natural structures of the Pinnacles Desert in Nambung National Park, Western Australia were formed, but today they draw 250,000 visitors every year. Pillars of time-warn limestone, some several metres tall, jut out of the surrounding sand dunes like a petrified, paleolithic garden. Every structure seems to have its own unique, weather-beaten shape.

The stromatilites of Lake Thetis are babies by comparison. While the organisms you see are estimated to be only 3,500 years old, they are living descendants of the earliest life-forms to appear on earth - literally living fossils.

The Pinnacles

Me standing next to one of the tallest pinnacles, just to show how high some of them are.

Where are the Pinnacles?

The Pinnacles Desert is in Nambung National Park, 17 kms south of Cervantes. It is a couple of hours north of Perth by car along the Indian Ocean Drive. Only 6 kms from the ocean, the Pinnacles were mistaken for the ruins of an ancient city by Dutch sailors in the 1700s.

Is there an entry fee?

There is a day pass entry fee of $12 per vehicle ($6 for seniors) or you can purchase a four week holiday pass for $46. You might want to consider the holiday pass if you plan to visit other National Parks in Western Australia. Not all of them charge you to enter so check beforehand whether the holiday pass will be cost effective. Click here for a link showing which parks have entry fees. Note that the holiday pass does not give you entry to the Monkey Mia Reserve at Shark Bay. 

What are the opening hours?

The Pinnacles Desert is open 24/7 all year round.

Should you drive or walk around the Pinnacles?

The park has both a walking trail and a 4 km driving loop. The road is unsealed but perfectly suitable for a 2WD car. Don't panic at the early pot-holes. The worst section of road is at the very beginning of the loop. Caravans and trailers need to be left in the car park.  We drove around because we were a bit pushed for time. The road goes much further into the park than the walking track so if you have a car I would recommend driving. There are plenty of places to stop and look around on foot. The whole loop took us about half an hour.

Is there anything else to do?

There is a modern Visitor Centre with displays explaining how the Pinnacles were formed. It is a lot more interesting than it sounds. 

What should you bring?

Bring a hat, sunscreen and water. This is Western Australia and the sun is unforgiving.

The Stromatolites of Lake Thetis

I will be the first to admit that stromatolites are not an attraction you want to travel a long way to see. They look a bit like lumps of grey coral just under the surface of the lake, but if you are in the area anyway they are worth a detour. To really appreciate what you are seeing make sure you read the signs, then stop for a moment and imagine what the earth was like when these were the only forms of life. The Lake Thetis stromatolites are estimated to be about 3500 years old but they are closely related to organisms which existed 3.5 billion years ago and were the earliest life-forms on earth.

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Where are the stromatolites of Lake Thetis?

The turn-off to Lake Thetis is on Hansen Bay Rd. Hansen Bay Rd runs left off Cervantes Rd just before you reach Cervantes. The lake is 1 km from the start of Hansen Bay Rd. The road to the lake is unsealed but when we were there it was fine for a two-wheel drive vehicle.

Is there an entry fee?

There is no entry fee.

The boardwalk trail?

There is a 300m long boardwalk trail which takes you to a couple of viewing spots with interpretive signage. At the end of the boardwalk continue along the track for a 1.5km loop circumnavigating the lake.

What should you bring?

Bring a hat, sunscreen and water.  There are no shops or other facilities at the lake.

Other blog posts on Western Australia - 

The Kimberley

• Berkeley River Lodge: A wilderness resort in the Kimberley.

• Amalia Gorge: Would you go swimming with a crocodile?

• Zebedee Springs and Chamberlain Gorge: Disappointment in the Kimberley

• Wille Creek Pearl Farm & The Perfect Pearl

• El Questro Station Bungalows: The best kept secret in the Kimberley

The Coral Coast

• The Abrolhos Islands Fly & Flipper Tour

• Mantra Geraldton

• Hutt Lagoon: A pink lake you can drive to

The South West: Perth to Esperance

• Springtime tulips at Araluen Botanic Park, Western Australia
• Wildflowers in Western Australia: Kings Park, Perth
• Fraser Suites, Perth - a review
• The National ANZAC Centre, Albany
• Albany Harbourside Apartments and Houses
• 7 things to do in Amazing Albany
• 2 Weeks in Western Australia: A road trip itinerary

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