Amalia Gorge: Would you go swimming with a crocodile?

"A freshwater croc lives in the pool there."

With these less than comforting words ringing in our ears we set off for a late afternoon hike to Amalia Gorge. I should add that the very nice lady on the information desk did say this particular freshwater crocodile wasn't dangerous - unless we annoyed him. I don't know what you would do but I wasn't about to take any chances. We came to the Kimberley region of Western Australia for the scenery, not to become reptile lunch. If you are swimming in a rock pool and come face to face with a prehistoric monster of gargantuan proportions how exactly do you ensure that you don't annoy him? So much for taking a dip at the end of our walk - cross that one off the list!



From the car park to the end of the gorge the trail is 3.4 km. At a moderate pace, without stopping or getting lost it takes a couple of hours. Try not to get lost! I can tell you from first hand experience, losing the trail is very stressful.  

David and I set out at about 3 pm. With sunset due at 5.00 pm we knew we were pushing our luck a bit but decided to walk for 45 minutes and then turn around whether we were at the end of the gorge or not.

Ochre Pool at Amalia Gorge. There are two swimming holes at Amalia Gorge. I don't know which one the crocodile lives in but I wasn't taking the chance it was this one. Can you see the people in the photo?

For the first 15 minutes we followed a rocky creek bed. The small, blue, triangular trail markers were often faded and difficult to find (this really should have been a warning signal) and the rocks had a disturbing habit of shifting underfoot which meant that we spent more time watching our footing and less taking note of our surroundings. After one or two false turns we made it through to the start of the gorge with its magnificent red-rock sides towering above us.

The rocky creek bed which forms the first part of the trail.

Our trail guide (see 'My Tips' below) had numbered points corresponding to landmarks on the route. They ran from 1 to 12 and had helpful little descriptions and a legend which included icons for things like  'Creek', 'Pool', 'Swimming', 'Falls' and 'Crocodiles'. Yes, you read that right - 'Crocodiles'!

Point 8, about two thirds of the way along was named 'Caution Point' and had this advice:

"A small and very narrow section with a 4 m drop. This is the most dangerous point along the entire trail. Take great care and assist others. Do not attempt if suffering from vertigo or if not sure footed."

David has never been comfortable with heights. He took one look at the 'very narrow section with the 4 m drop' and declared it too dangerous to continue. It was one of those 'don't even try to change my mind on this' moments, so I didn't, even though I was fairly sure we could have got through without falling to a premature death.

The 'Ochre Pool', a wonderfully peaceful looking swimming hole was just before Point 8 so we decided to sit for a while, contemplating nature, before heading back to our car.   The pool looked oh so inviting, - but hey, remember that crocodile. Even though I couldn't see him it didn't mean he wasn't there.

Ochre Pool again. Can you see the crocodile? Neither could I.

Just as we were about to leave, a family with several young children appeared at the other side of the pool. They had clearly made it through Point 8. We watched them negotiate the return. They made it look easy. There is nothing in the world like being shown up by a six year old.

As it turned out, Point 8 and David's reluctance to negotiate it did us a favour.  On our return hike, we needed every minute of daylight the early turn back gave us. Back on the rocky creek bed where on our way in we were watching our footing rather than taking note of our surroundings, we lost the trail. The trail markers simply disappeared. We couldn't have been more than 15 minutes from the car park but anything except exactly the right direction threatened to take us into an unforgiving wilderness. We had no torch or other source of light and there was no mobile phone coverage. Our only comfort was knowing there was at least one person behind us. We had passed one of the mothers from the group we saw at Ochre Pool going back toward the gorge. She was re-tracing her steps in the hope of retrieving her son's lost watch. Thank heavens for boys and their ability to misplace things!

There is a small blue triangular trail marker in this photo. Can you see it? I took this shot at Emma Gorge, not Amalia, but the problem with the markers was the same.

If we couldn't find the trail, Plan B was to wait for the mother and, swallowing our embarrassment, ask her to lead us out. Luckily it didn't come to that. After some frantic searching about we realised we must have taken the wrong fork about 50 metres back.  Ten minutes later we were safely in the car with just enough time to cross the Pentecost River before the last rays of the sun disappeared.

Past the dry creek bed the trail took us through vegetation before entering the main part of the gorge.

Crossing the Pentecost River. As if getting lost wasn't stressful enough we still had to cross the Pentecost to get back to our accommodation. We didn't want to do it in the dark. You can see the car's dashboard and bonnet at the bottom of the photo. The other side of the river is barely visible.

My Tips:

• An El Questro Wilderness Park Permit is required to walk the gorge. A day pass costs $12 per adult. Children 12 and under are free. 

• Pick up an Amalia Gorge Trail Fact Sheet from either El Questro Station or the El Questro Reservations Office in Kununurra. You will find the reservations office in the Visitor Centre at Kununurra.

• Take plenty of water and wear hiking/walking shoes.

• The walk is 3.4 km and takes about two hours return without stopping.

• Up to Point 8 it is not a difficult walk but the first part of the trail follows a dry creek bed with loose rocks which makes it quite slow and not suitable for anyone with mobility issues.

• Like all the walks in the Kimberley, Amalia Gorge is cooler and prettier in the early mornings and late afternoons, however the sun sets early in this part of the world. Despite the warm temperatures this is the dry season - winter - so sunset will be between 5 and 5.20 pm. Last light comes about twenty minutes later. I don't think you can access the gorge during summer - the wet season. Don't risk running out of daylight by setting out too late.  

• Amalia Gorge is about an hour and a quarter's drive from Kununurra, along El Questro Road which turns off the Gibb River Road. Our accommodation was 15 minutes further on, at El Questro Station. The disadvantage with this was that we had to cross the Pentecost river to get to the gorge.

• Hire a 4WD. The road to Amalia Gorge is a severely corrugated dirt road. When we visited in June 2017 it would have been possible to get there from Kununurra with a 2WD vehicle - I think. Please don't trust me on this because I am no expert. There are two large river crossings just beyond the gorge so if you intend to go on to El Questro Station, which is the end of the road, you need to have a high clearance 4WD. 

Crocodiles: 

Australia has two species of crocodiles: freshwater crocodiles and saltwater, or estuarine, crocodiles. Freshwater crocodiles are smaller than saltwater crocs and they rarely attack people. Saltwater crocodiles are the world's largest living reptile species. They can grow up to 6m, weigh one tonne and have been responsible for many deaths. Despite their name, they can also be found in freshwater areas.

The only way to stay safe in crocodile country is to stay out of the water and away from the water's edge unless you know it is saltwater crocodile free. Do not rely on being able to see whether there is a crocodile in the water. While we were at Berkeley River Lodge we saw more than one saltwater crocodile completely disappear below the surface of the water. Had we not first seen them on the river bank we wouldn't have known they were there.

A freshwater crocodile. He may not be a man-eater like his saltwater cousins but would you take the chance? I took this photo at Hartley's Crocodile Adventures, a few years ago in Cairns.

Click on the link below for last week's post on the Kimberley region: -

• Berkeley River Lodge: A wilderness resort in the Kimberley.

• Zebedee Springs and Chamberlain Gorge

• Willie Creek Pearl Farm and the Perfect Pearl

• Emma Gorge: There is something you need to know.

• El Questro Station Bungalows: The best kept secret in the Kimberley

Click on the links below for posts on the Coral Coast and  south-west of Western Australia, from Perth to Esperence:- 

The Coral Coast
• The Abrolhos Islands Fly & Flipper Tour
• Where to stay in Geraldton: Mantra Geraldton
• Hutt Lagoon: A pink lake you can drive to
• Pinnacles and Stromatolites: Ancient formations and living fossils


The South West: Perth to Esperance

• Springtime tulips at Araluen Botanic Park, Western Australia
• Wildflowers in Western Australia: Kings Park, Perth
• Fraser Suites, Perth - a review
• The National ANZAC Centre, Albany
• Albany Harbourside Apartments and Houses
• 7 things to do in Amazing Albany
• 2 Weeks in Western Australia: A road trip itinerary

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