Berkeley River Lodge: A wilderness resort in the Kimberley, Western Australia

There are few places left on the planet where you can visit an untouched wilderness. Berkeley River, on the far northwest coast of Western Australia is one. Beyond the outback, the landscape stretches from one horizon to the other without a single sign of human habitation save Berkeley River Lodge - and perhaps a lone sailor sheltering for the night in the safety of the river mouth.  Access is by light plane from Darwin or Kununurra and supplies arrive by barge. There are no roads in or out.



We came to the Kimberley region for the stunning scenery and the isolation. At Berkeley River Lodge we got both. With individual villas dotted along the cliff top, looking out either across the vast expanse of the Timor Sea or toward the magnificent gorges of the Berkeley River, we felt like we had the world to ourselves.

The gorge at Berkeley River.

Highlights of our stay:

The River Cruise: 

On our first full day we joined a dozen or so other guests on a river cruise to Casuarina Falls. This is crocodile country and Matt, our guide, warned us to be on the look out for saltwater crocs sunning themselves on the rocks or waiting for their next meal in the camouflage of the river-bank vegetation. We didn’t have to wait long for our first sight of one of these prehistoric monsters. Then we saw another and another and another - six in all by the end of the cruise.

This saltwater monster was hidden in the mangroves near the river.

As the mangrove-lined banks began to give way to red-rock gorges, Matt pulled into the side of the river and we clambered out to explore the rock pools and rivulets.

The rock pools were beautiful and blissfully crocodile-free.

Back in the boat we entered a series of gorges with orange-red sandstone cliffs towering above us on both sides. This was the Kimberley region I had come to see and I wasn’t disappointed.

We travelled up the river to Casuarina Falls as far as a boat can navigate, before pulling in for a picnic lunch on the natural seats of a rock ledge.


The Creek Walk:

On our second full day we set out with a smaller group to explore Berkeley Creek. The creek runs along a plateau at the top of the gorge. To reach it we had to climb over rocks up a steeply sloping cliff face. It wasn’t especially difficult but I wouldn’t want to attempt it without a moderate level of fitness and a reasonable head for heights. Once at the top we were able to stand at the very edge of the rock face forming one side of the gorge. The view was breathtaking.

The view from the top of the Gorge

Our guide, Bruce, who had spent much of his life living in and exploring this part of the Kimberley Coast, led us upstream along the creek. From time to time there were rock pools large enough for us to cool off with a short swim. Crocodiles don’t climb, so we were safe from the prospect of becoming reptile lunch.

Some of our group negotiating a tricky section on the Berkeley Creek walk.

We also came across several examples of ancient Bradshaw Rock Art. Named after Joseph Bradshaw who first discovered it in 1891 and found only in the Kimberley region of Western Australia, little is known about its origins. It may have been created by the ancestors of today’s aborigines, however the elaborately ornamented figures it depicts bear little resemblance to modern Australian aborigines, leading to the theory that it was created by another race of people entirely. If Bradshaw Art does pre-date modern aborigines then it may be some of the earliest rock art on earth.

Bradshaw Art

Other activities:

At 4 pm on our first evening a beach drive left the lodge to take in the sunset with drinks and nibbles. On the way Matt kept up a running commentary on the local area. It was lots of fun and a great opportunity to catch the scenery in the soft late afternoon light.

I took this on the beach drive with my little point and shoot. I thought it came out pretty well given that I don't pretend to be a photographer.

As well as the River Cruise, Creek Walk and Beach Drive there were also fishing tours and helicopter sightseeing flights. Other guests spoke highly of them.

Accommodation:

Three of the villas. Villa 20 is on the right hand side.

The rooms at Berkeley River Lodge consist of self-contained villas. While those further away from the main lodge have more privacy than those close to the lodge, none have a view which is less than breathtaking. About half the villas look out across the ocean and half look toward the Berkeley River. We stayed in Villa 20 which was furthest from the lodge. The disadvantage of this was that we had a long, dark walk after dinner each night along the resort’s unlit red dirt road. The first night we managed to get lost but fortunately found our way again fairly quickly. The torch we discovered in our room was essential - but my little black pumps will never be the same again! The advantage was the glorious sunsets we got by being angled more to the west than the other villas, although the westerly aspect made the terrace quite hot in the afternoons.

The inside of our villa.

Villa 20 also has an interesting bathroom. The other villas all have outside showers, toilets and baths open to the elements on top but encircled by rough brushwood fencing. The fencing in Villa 20 is open to the elements above and from about waist height on one side. This is the room to ask for if you have a yearning to feel like you are camping but don’t want to swap the luxury of a hotel room for an actual tent. I loved it. David found it just weird!

Our open air bathroom - the shower is on the left, out of the shot.

Food:


The food, particularly at dinner was a little disappointing. All 40 guests eat together at communal tables, each seating about eight to twelve people. Everyone is served the same meal except those who specifically request something different. David asked for seafood and was given wild barramundi each night.

The menus were unimaginative and not of the high standard we have experienced in other luxury resorts in Australia, but the main problem was the noise of 40 guests all sitting down to dinner at the same time. Without any soft furnishings to deaden the sound and with the doors and windows closed to keep out the wind and evening chill, the dining room was so noisy as to make normal conversation impossible. We were forced to alternate between shouting at our dining companions in an effort to make ourselves heard and nodding politely at their unintelligible answers.

The main lodge and dining room.

What you won’t get at Berkeley River Lodge:


Berkeley River Lodge is a wilderness lodge. Being in a remote location in the midst of breathtaking scenery is the whole point. I would return in a heartbeat but the isolated location does require some concessions. Among the things you can’t do and shouldn’t expect are:

• Room service – the rooms are serviced daily but don't expect meals or other refreshments to be delivered, nor is there a phone or intercom with which to contact reception. Come to think of it, there isn't an actual reception desk either. If you need the staff for any reason you have to go looking for them.

• Piping hot showers – the solar heating struggles, making open air showers in the, cooler than I expected, mornings something of a brisk affair. The trick, which we worked out on day 2 or 3, was to shower in the early afternoon while the sun is still strong.

• Surf the net or talk on your mobile phone – there is limited (very limited) wifi in the main lodge and none at all in the villas. There is no mobile phone reception.

• Swim in the surf – remember those saltwater crocs we saw on the river cruise. Swimming in either the ocean or the river is likely to be fatal - better too not to walk too close to the edge of the water. I should add there was a lovely looking pool which we didn't swim in.

My tips for your stay:

• Pack a light jacket for the evenings. The days are warm but the evenings can be chilly.

• Pack a decent pair of walking/hiking shoes and comfortable shorts.

• Leave the high heels at home. You won't be able to wear them on the red-dirt roads which connect the villas to the main lodge.

• If you have mobility issues, ask for a villa close to the lodge. 

• Pack an eye mask. The curtains don't even come close to keeping out the early morning sun. Alternatively you can embrace the dawn and enjoy the beautiful sunrise each morning.

Click on the links below for my other posts on the Kimberley Region - 

• Amalia Gorge: Would you go swimming with a crocodile?

• Zebedee Springs and Chamberlain Gorge

• Willie Creek Pearl Farm and the Perfect Pearl

• Emma Gorge: There is something you need to know.

• El Questro Station Bungalows: The best kept secret in the Kimberley

Click on the links below for posts on the Coral Coast and  south-west of Western Australia, from Perth to Esperence:- 

The Coral Coast
• The Abrolhos Islands Fly & Flipper Tour
• Where to stay in Geraldton: Mantra Geraldton
• Hutt Lagoon: A pink lake you can drive to
• Pinnacles and Stromatolites: Ancient formations and living fossils


The South West: Perth to Esperance

• Springtime tulips at Araluen Botanic Park, Western Australia
• Wildflowers in Western Australia: Kings Park, Perth
• Fraser Suites, Perth - a review
• The National ANZAC Centre, Albany
• Albany Harbourside Apartments and Houses
• 7 things to do in Amazing Albany
• 2 Weeks in Western Australia: A road trip itinerary

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Note: David and I received a media discount during our stay at Berkeley River Lodge. All opinions are our own.