Q Station Manly: A unique place in Sydney's history.

On Thursday 18 May 1882, 25 year old Thomas Frost, his wife Evelina, 23 and their three children Clara 5, Florence 3 and Christina 1, set sail on the ship Orontes from Plymouth in England en route to Sydney, Australia.

Clara was my great grandmother.

Two months later, on 19 July the Orontes arrived in Sydney Harbour. It was a migrant ship and my forbears and their fellow passengers came to Australia to begin a new life. However before they were allowed to disembark, the Orontes like all other migrant ships arriving in Sydney had to be declared free of contagious diseases.


Christina, my great great aunt, died of measles during the voyage and was buried at sea. She was one of twenty on board who fell ill with the disease.

Thomas kept a diary of the voyage and in a sad fatalism wrote of his daughter's death,

"Just before dinner our dear little Christina died this afternoon after a very short illness at 5.15 as if she was going to sleep ....  her time had come and she had to go where we trust she is better off."

With measles, a contagious and sometimes fatal disease, on board the Orontes passengers were required to disembark at Sydney's quarantine station and to remain there until they were cleared of any risk that they might pass the disease on.

Thomas recorded his disappointment at being sent to quarantine after such a long voyage,

"A most lovely morning but we are a little down as we have got orders for all married people to go into quarantine ... the single men and women had to keep on the ship .... the quarantine buildings is (sic) about a mile from the ship and when there has been a very deal off (sic) illness on board of any kind they have got to go into these buildings until the doctors & commissioners pass the ship."

In the event, my forebears were lucky. They remained at the quarantine station for only a few days before being able to begin their new lives in Australia.

Recently David and I were able to explore my family's past with an overnight stay at Q Station, Manly.

Me, climbing the giant stairway at Q Station. If it looks familiar, we were told that these stairs have featured in 'The Biggest Loser' from time to time. I wonder if my ancestors climbed this hill?

Q Station, Manly

Between the 1830s and 1984 every migrant ship entering Sydney Harbour was required to be cleared of infectious diseases before the passengers were able to land. If disease was suspected on board both the sick and the healthy were sent to the quarantine station. Some, like my forebears, spent only a few days there, some spent many months and others, more than 500 in all, died. They died of terrible diseases, the mere names of which conjure up images of suffering and desolation - diseases such as smallpox, bubonic plague, typhus and Spanish flu. The healthy were segregated from the sick which meant that those who died often did so alone without the comfort of family or friends.

Today the buildings and grounds of the quarantine station have been repurposed as Q Station - a modern hotel and function centre.

The dull day didn't improve my photographic skills but you can get an idea from this photo of the view we were treated to in the grounds of Q Station.

Location

Q Station is located within the 30 hectare grounds of Sydney Harbour National Park at North Head near Manly. North Head has uninterrupted views across Sydney Harbour, perfect for early morning or evening strolls. The grounds of the hotel are so extensive that shuttle buses take you from reception to your room.

This map gives you an idea of how extensive the grounds of Q Station are.

Accommodation

Guests are accommodated in heritage listed buildings which were once home to patients and other residents. We stayed in a suite in the former Isolation Precinct. With its separate living room and crisp white linen it was pleasant and comfortable.

The bedroom of our suite in the Isolation Precinct.

The downside to repurposing heritage buildings is that management is restricted in the changes it can make. A modern architect would no doubt have positioned the Isolation Precinct rooms to take greater advantage of views of the harbour, but perhaps Q Station's original inhabitants had looked at enough water by the time they arrived. Our room looked out onto nothing more grandiose than native Australian bush. Fortunately a nearby lounge area and its outside deck gave us a great vantage point from which to sip cocktails and admire the harbour.

It wasn't easy to pull ourselves away from the spectacular sight of the sun setting over Balmoral Beach

Accommodation at Q Station varies widely. For most of the quarantine station's history, residents were segregated according to the class of berth they had on their voyage to Sydney. First class passengers were accommodated in the first class precinct. They dined on fine china and lived as much as was possible in a style befitting their station in life. Second class passengers had rooms in the second class precinct with fewer comforts. At the very bottom of the social pile were 'Asiatics', housed in a bunk room sleeping up to sixty people. Look at a map of Q Station and you will see it is still divided into these precincts.  Depending on the room you choose you might find yourself sleeping in the 'First Class Precinct', 'Second Class Precinct' or the 'Isolation Precinct'.  You will be pleased to hear there is no longer any bunk accommodation in the 'Asiatics Precinct.'

Part of the Hospital Precinct.

Q Station Tours

History Tours

Soon after we arrived we were ushered onto a history tour.  Even if history is not your thing I defy anyone to be uninterested in the stories of the day to day lives of those who passed through the station.

Imagine surviving months at sea and coming half-way across the world, only to be incarcerated for an indefinite period in quarantine.  Emigrants disembarked their ships at the quarantine station's own wharf. From there they were sent to decontamination showers to scrub down with a burning mixture of carbolic soap and water. The precious few possessions they had were sterilised with high pressure steam in huge autoclaves. Imagine what that might do to your family heirlooms.

While the sick were housed in the hospital precinct, the healthy were confined with their fellow passengers for the duration of the quarantine period for whatever disease they were suspected of carrying. If a single member of a group fell ill, the whole quarantine period would begin again.

Luggage was sterilised in huge autoclaves.

Ghost Tours

Q Station has a reputation as the most haunted place in Sydney. After experiencing a Q Station ghost tour I can see why.  Click here to read about my encounter with a Q Station ghost.

Some of our tour group felt a 'presence' in the old hospital ward.

Other Activities

The bad weather jinx which has been following David and I around for the past few weeks struck again at Q Station. It was far too cold for our planned kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding and snorkeling but we consoled ourselves with a few good wines and a stunning dinner at the Boilerhouse Restaurant.

My Tips: -

• Don't miss the history tour. You will get a lot more out of your stay at Q Station if you understand its history.

• Allow yourself enough time to explore the museum down near the wharf. I found the inscriptions carved by generations of residents in the soft sandstone outside the museum fascinating.

• Spend some time just wandering about. Q Station is a great place to explore.

• Have lunch or dinner, or both, at The Boilerhouse Restaurant. The food, under the direction of chef Matt Kemp, is superb.

Related post - A Ghost Tour at Q Station

Note: David and I stayed as guests of Q Station.